How to Buy Gems and Jewelry
Fully understanding the characteristics and value of gemstones requires years of experience in the trade or gemological training,however, we can give you some helpful pointers that will serve you well in making your gem and jewelry purchases.
In evaluating gemstones we must look to the “four C’s”: color, clarity, cut, and carat weight. Each of these factors can influence both the beauty and value of a stone. In general, the color, or the amount of saturation of the color throughout the stone,is one of the most important factors in evaluating colored gemstones. Looking at the stone from many angles will help you determine if the color is even throughout the stone; at the same time,look for light or dark areas as your turn the stone. Clarity is important as it affects the brilliance of a stone, so again, while turning the stone, check to see if it sparkles as it catches the light. The cut of a gemstone can also affect its beauty, so be sure to check to see if the stone looks symmetrical. Are the facet faces all the same size? Is the stone’s depth too shallow or too deep? A poorly cut gemstone will not display the same brilliance and overall beauty of a well-cut stone. And finally, the carat weight of the stone will have an impact on the value. Since gemstones are sold by carat, prices can jump considerably with an increase of weight, although this is not quite as important in some of the semi-precious stones as it is for diamonds and precious gemstones, such as ruby, sapphire, and emerald.
When buying jewelry, one must be certain to check the quality of the gemstones or diamonds. Make sure there are no scratches or nicks visible. Then, carefully check the finishing of the piece. Do the prongs appear to hold the gemstone snugly in place? Are the prongs evenly placed? Check to see if the gemstones are crooked or well set. It is recommended that you also check to see if any pieces or components of the jewelry are loose or bent. When choosing jewelry, you may also want to consider if the design is trendy, one that might easily go out of fashion, or if it is a classic style that you can wear for years to come. Take into consideration the occasion for which you will wear it, but above all, choose apiece of jewelry that suits your taste and lifestyle.
Below you will find some useful suggestions on what to look for in the range of precious gemstones.
Ruby
The most important criteria for choosing a ruby is color. Ruby comes in many shades of red and can look pink and have shades of purple or even orange. The more vivid the red color, the higher the value of the stone, however, personal preference must also be considered. Ruby without inclusions is rare, but inclusions do not necessarily take away from the beauty of the stone. If a ruby is highly included, it will most likely be cut as a cabochon, not faceted stone. Good color ruby over 2 -3 carats is more rare and thus the price will be considerably higher. Other red gemstones include garnet, red spinel, and red tourmaline known as rubellite.
Sapphire
The most beautiful color of sapphire is blue with minor violet overtones, often called cornflowerblue or royal blue. The purer the blue, the more valuable the stone, however this is subjective as some people prefer light colors to dark. Be sure that the stone is neither too light nor too dark and not highly included. Check the stone from many angles and note if it has brilliance or not. Higher quality stones will usually have more brilliance. Carat weight will also affect the value, the higher the carat weight, the more valuable the stone. Other blue stones include blue spinel, blue tourmaline, and tanzanite.
Yellow Sapphire
Although ruby, blue sapphire and yellow sapphire are all of the same family known as corundum, yellow sapphire has the least inclusions of the three. A good quality yellow sapphire will be neither too dark nor too light. Some yellow sapphire has greenish overtones or a whiskey color, depending on its place of origin. Fine yellow sapphire, especially in large sizes, can be very expensive. Stones that may be mistaken for yellow sapphire are citrine, yellow topaz and some varieties of garnet.
Emerald
Emerald is a member of the beryl family and is more valuable when it is a deep green color. Most top quality emerald comes from Colombia, Brazil, Zambia and Russia and can range from light to dark green and have blue or yellow overtones. Nearly all emerald on the market has been enhanced by oil to fill and disguise its inclusions or fractures which makes the color appear more beautiful. Emerald with fewer inclusions and high transparency is the most desirable, however, most emerald will have inclusions so it is important to chose one that retains its beauty in spite of the inclusions. Other green stone varieties you might want to consider are peridot, garnet, and apatite.
Diamond
Diamonds have an internationally recognized grading system, with colors ranging from D to Z. Top quality colors ranges from D to F and fancy yellow in the Z range. Clarity also is a major factor in determining the price of a diamond, combined with cut, which can either enhance or detract from the stone’s beauty; and carat weight which also determines the value.

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